refs/reftable: lazy-load configuration to fix chicken-and-egg

Same as with the "files" backend, the "reftable" backend also has a
chicken-and-egg problem with "onbranch" conditions. Fix this issue the
same as we did with the "files" backend by lazy-loading configuration.

Now that both the "files" and the "reftable" backend handle this
properly, add a generic test to t1400 that verifies that the user can
configure "core.logAllRefUpdates" via an "onbranch" condition. This is
mostly a nonsensical thing to do in the first place, but it serves as a
good sanity check.

Note that we had to move `should_write_log()` around so that it can
access the new `reftable_be_write_options()` function.

Signed-off-by: Patrick Steinhardt <ps@pks.im>
Signed-off-by: Junio C Hamano <gitster@pobox.com>

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